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| Kakashi |
Posted on 18-11-08, 00:23 (revision 5)
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 Post: #11 of 210 Since: 10-29-18 Last post: 1907 days Last view: 1879 days |
My console is modded and should be here in a couple of days. :-) Unfortunately, the guy seems to know nothing about changing the palettes, so I'll just have the three standard palettes from Tim.
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| Kakashi |
Posted on 18-11-12, 09:35
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Post: #17 of 210 Since: 10-29-18 Last post: 1907 days Last view: 1879 days |
My god, this has turned out to be way more trouble than it was worth. I had to send it back because it wasn't working with...anything I tried. SO CONFUSED. Fingers crossed it was actually broken and he lied about not fixing anything. He says he's gonna test it with a Framemeister...haven't heard back yet. |
| Kakashi |
Posted on 18-11-14, 03:34
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Post: #21 of 210 Since: 10-29-18 Last post: 1907 days Last view: 1879 days |
Received it back in the mail this morning... Well....not perfect, but kind of better results than before. I didn't clean or change anything. I can get sound from both the 3.5mm and the RGB Multi-out through the Framemeister. I can get sound and video through the Composite Multi-out, but still no video from the RGB Multi-out. This is definitely a sync issue. I don't have much time to play around with it right now, since I have work soon. But, if I can't get this to work on any sync setting, I may have to try soldering the sync to CSync (CS#) (it's currently soldered to Composite (V)). The NESRGB seems to be working now, so I can't think of anything else. |
| CaptainJistuce |
Posted on 18-11-14, 05:35
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Custom title here
 Post: #62 of 1164 Since: 10-30-18 Last post: 93 days Last view: 10 days |
Composite video for sync is actually correct for SCART. Which isn't to say you won't get better results with a cleaner sync signal, just that it isn't necessarily wrong. --- In UTF-16, where available. --- |
| Kakashi |
Posted on 18-11-14, 10:25 (revision 1)
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Post: #22 of 210 Since: 10-29-18 Last post: 1907 days Last view: 1879 days |
I forgot to mention; there's also the PPU VSync (PPUV Pad). I went to sign up for the Schmups forum (https://shmups.system11.org/) and accidentally clicked the link that said I was born after 2005 and now I need permission from my guardian. I replied to the e-mail, but I dunno if that's the correct one. *sigh* Too busy lately and my brain can't catch up... UPDATE: I'm registered now thanks to the admin allowing me to re-create my account, but I'll post there if I can't fix it using advice from here. |
| CaptainJistuce |
Posted on 18-11-14, 13:13
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Custom title here
Post: #64 of 1164 Since: 10-30-18 Last post: 93 days Last view: 10 days |
Posted by KakashiThat one probably WON'T work. The TV needs HSync and VSync both. HSync signals the end of a line, VSync signals the end of a frame(more or less). Composite sync is both sync signals on one line. Unlike composite video, they're very easy to separate out and don't interfere with each other, so there's not really a quality loss there. --- In UTF-16, where available. --- |
| Kakashi |
Posted on 18-11-14, 14:14 (revision 2)
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Post: #23 of 210 Since: 10-29-18 Last post: 1907 days Last view: 1879 days |
Here's the pinout: https://etim.net.au/nesrgb/NESRGB-Pinout.pdf I remember asking the guy about jumper J8 and he just told me he soldered J7 for NTSC and giggled like an idiot. It appears he's configured J4 and J5 correctly for that, though. Do I need to switch V to CS# and solder J8? Is that composite video output being used for a sync? If I change to composite sync, will I lose composite output? I'm confused as to how to solder that, though. J4 looks like three neat triangles, where-as J5 is just a blob. I'm completely convinced that he didn't test it with a Framemeister, now. |
| qwertymodo |
Posted on 18-11-14, 22:48
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 Post: #2 of 4 Since: 10-30-18 Last post: 1830 days Last view: 1829 days |
Can you post a photo of the bottom of the console main board? |
| CaptainJistuce |
Posted on 18-11-14, 23:04 (revision 1)
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Custom title here
Post: #65 of 1164 Since: 10-30-18 Last post: 93 days Last view: 10 days |
I'm pretty sure J8 should be closed. Note that it wasn't even an option on older revisions. You can try using CSync instead of CVideo, but I don't think that's really an issue. I'd wait on that, try it if nothing else helps. Edit: "NES / Famicom – The NESRGB mod offers both TTL and 75 ohm csync output, toggled via jumper J8. If you plan on using a SNES multi-out and standard SNES cable, use TTL to match the SNES’ output. If you’re using a cable with no components in the line, make sure to use 75ohm output. csync line: Select sync via jumper." I don't remember what your cable is like. --- In UTF-16, where available. --- |
| Kakashi |
Posted on 18-11-16, 08:33 (revision 7)
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Post: #24 of 210 Since: 10-29-18 Last post: 1907 days Last view: 1879 days |
(This post was supposed to be before the photos, Kawa or Screwtape :-P ) I just finished my first full day of work at my new job and I'm well and truly dead...lol I gotta go and get my new visa tomorrow morning, so after that I'll post photos of the top and bottom(s?) in it's current state. Thanks for your help, guys. UPDATE: Before I go off to get my visa, I thought I'd mention that I got an RGB21 SCART cable for my SFC when I bought my Framemeister and both my SFC and PS2 work great through it. It's supposed to be the same as the SHVC-010 cable. I've not read enough details regarding this cable's compatibility with the NESRGB. https://www.amazon.co.jp/3A-RGB21-SFC-3A%E3%82%AB%E3%83%B3%E3%83%91%E3%83%8B%E3%83%BC-%E3%82%B9%E3%83%BC%E3%83%91%E3%83%BC%E3%83%95%E3%82%A1%E3%83%9F%E3%82%B3%E3%83%B3%E7%94%A821%E3%83%94%E3%83%B3RGB%E3%82%B1%E3%83%BC%E3%83%96%E3%83%AB-2m-3A-RGB21-SFC/dp/B016UQGG28/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8 PS I got a 3-year visa! :-D |
| Kakashi |
Posted on 18-11-16, 08:49 (revision 3)
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Post: #25 of 210 Since: 10-29-18 Last post: 1907 days Last view: 1879 days |
OK, here are a bunch of photos: Top  NESRGB removed  Bottom of NESRGB  Bottom with horrid tape  Underneath horrid tape  Composite output |
| Kawaoneechan |
Posted on 18-11-16, 08:56 (revision 1)
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The best thing since bread glue
 Post: #80 of 599 Since: 10-29-18 Last post: 226 days Last view: 1 day |
Posted by KakashiEditing the post changes the timestamp and puts it at the end again. Well, that's not the full story of course cos that would mean ABXD's been Very Stupid about edits for literally years. But that's what you get when you have no patience and make another thread to put the pictures in. |
| Kakashi |
Posted on 18-11-16, 09:05
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Post: #26 of 210 Since: 10-29-18 Last post: 1907 days Last view: 1879 days |
So I still have to wait 24 hours to make another post? :-\ |
| Kawaoneechan |
Posted on 18-11-16, 09:40
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Secretly, I'm Derpy Hooves
Post: #81 of 599 Since: 10-29-18 Last post: 226 days Last view: 1 day |
Fuck it, doublepost limit commented out. |
| CaptainJistuce |
Posted on 18-11-16, 10:13
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Custom title here
Post: #69 of 1164 Since: 10-30-18 Last post: 93 days Last view: 10 days |
Posted by KawaThat's all we wanted, is the knowledge that you will do our bidding if we nag you enough. --- In UTF-16, where available. --- |
| Kakashi |
Posted on 18-11-16, 10:20
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Post: #28 of 210 Since: 10-29-18 Last post: 1907 days Last view: 1879 days |
After much discussion, CaptainJistuce and I came to the conclusion that I should at first try cleaning up J4 and soldering J8 to see if I get an RGB signal. The pallette switch could also use correcting, but first things first. I wonder what qwertymodo makes of it... |
| qwertymodo |
Posted on 18-11-17, 01:15
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Post: #3 of 4 Since: 10-30-18 Last post: 1830 days Last view: 1829 days |
Ok, so if I understand you, the composite output is working but RGB is not? I haven't installed on an AV Famicom, so I'll have to do some reading before I can offer any specific feedback, but since your install is socketed, I would HIGHLY recommend insulating the row of pins on the bottom of the NESRGB board that sits over the top of the CPU pins. I toasted a CPU on my console when the NESRGB tilted a little bit and shorted out the CPU. A strip of electrical tape would work fine, I went with hot glue. I use composite video as my RGB sync source, but that will depend on your TV. |
| Kakashi |
Posted on 18-11-17, 02:00
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Post: #30 of 210 Since: 10-29-18 Last post: 1907 days Last view: 1879 days |
I'm using a Framemeister. The composite output is working, but the RGB is not. I have an RGB21 SFC cable, so it has capacitors, but no resistors. This clearly needs J8 to be soldered for 75 Ohm output. The guy who installed it said that J4 was soldered by accident initially and he unbridged it....but he didn't remove all the solder. I don't understand why I'm still talking to him. Thanks for the advice regarding insulation. |
| Kakashi |
Posted on 18-11-17, 04:40 (revision 1)
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Post: #31 of 210 Since: 10-29-18 Last post: 1907 days Last view: 1879 days |
 Cleaned up J4 with braid, soldered J8 and cleaned up the top of the board with IPA. No change... :-( Please don't criticise my solder job, it's the second time in my life that I've ever soldered... UPDATE: I just got a refund for the installation. |
| Kakashi |
Posted on 18-11-17, 09:46
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Post: #32 of 210 Since: 10-29-18 Last post: 1907 days Last view: 1879 days |
OK, I posted elsewhere. |
