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| Kakashi | Aaaaand, here is the answer. |
| Kakashi |
Here's the pinout of the SCART cable when connected to the Famicom AV: AV -----> SCART 01 (R) ----> ? 02 (G) ----> ? 03 (V+S) -> ? 04 (B) ----> ? 05 (GR) ---> 3, 7, 13, 14, 17, 18, 21 06 (GR) ---> (This is bridged to AV 5) 07 (Y) ----> 9 08 (C) ----> ? 09 (V) ----> ? (works on composite multi-out and has continuity with NESRGB V pad) 10 (+5V) -> 11 11 (L-A) --> 1 12 (R-A) --> 5 Pins 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12 have no pinout on the SCART end. The guy who installed the NESRGB said he tested my cable, but clearly didn't. My cable connects to the SCART->Mini-DIN convertor that came with the Framemeister, so I'm not sure what I need to buy if I need to get a GameCube SCART cable... UPDATE: Just tested the pinout on my SFC and got the exact same readings. So, if the SFC works with RGB, then the AVFC should. Hence, the next step is to hook up CS# to AV 3. (After I fix the wire on the pallette switch that has now come loose.) |
| Kakashi | I'm gonna wait until I get a reply to my latest post on this thread and then I'll test everything with a multimeter. Besides, $gf is still asleep and I have D&D in 3 hours. Got a day off tomorrow, so I might be able to get more done then. |
| CaptainJistuce |
Posted by KakashiSet it to measure resistance, and put one probe on each contact. If the result isn't infinity, there's a bridge. |
| Kakashi |
I have a multimeter, here. Is there an easy way to check for continuity between them? (Keep in mind, the guy has checked output using a gamecube scart cable) |
| BearOso | It looks like the solder joints for the RGB wires are really close, but your photo doesn't have enough detail. Maybe they're bridged? |
| Kakashi | OK, I posted elsewhere. |
| Kakashi |
 Cleaned up J4 with braid, soldered J8 and cleaned up the top of the board with IPA. No change... :-( Please don't criticise my solder job, it's the second time in my life that I've ever soldered... UPDATE: I just got a refund for the installation. |
| Kakashi |
I'm using a Framemeister. The composite output is working, but the RGB is not. I have an RGB21 SFC cable, so it has capacitors, but no resistors. This clearly needs J8 to be soldered for 75 Ohm output. The guy who installed it said that J4 was soldered by accident initially and he unbridged it....but he didn't remove all the solder. I don't understand why I'm still talking to him. Thanks for the advice regarding insulation. |
| qwertymodo | Ok, so if I understand you, the composite output is working but RGB is not? I haven't installed on an AV Famicom, so I'll have to do some reading before I can offer any specific feedback, but since your install is socketed, I would HIGHLY recommend insulating the row of pins on the bottom of the NESRGB board that sits over the top of the CPU pins. I toasted a CPU on my console when the NESRGB tilted a little bit and shorted out the CPU. A strip of electrical tape would work fine, I went with hot glue. I use composite video as my RGB sync source, but that will depend on your TV. |
| Kakashi |
After much discussion, CaptainJistuce and I came to the conclusion that I should at first try cleaning up J4 and soldering J8 to see if I get an RGB signal. The pallette switch could also use correcting, but first things first. I wonder what qwertymodo makes of it... |
| CaptainJistuce |
Posted by KawaThat's all we wanted, is the knowledge that you will do our bidding if we nag you enough. |
| Kawaoneechan | Fuck it, doublepost limit commented out. |
| Kakashi | So I still have to wait 24 hours to make another post? :-\ |
| Kawaoneechan |
Posted by KakashiEditing the post changes the timestamp and puts it at the end again. Well, that's not the full story of course cos that would mean ABXD's been Very Stupid about edits for literally years. But that's what you get when you have no patience and make another thread to put the pictures in. |
| Kakashi |
OK, here are a bunch of photos: Top  NESRGB removed  Bottom of NESRGB  Bottom with horrid tape  Underneath horrid tape  Composite output |
| Kakashi |
(This post was supposed to be before the photos, Kawa or Screwtape :-P ) I just finished my first full day of work at my new job and I'm well and truly dead...lol I gotta go and get my new visa tomorrow morning, so after that I'll post photos of the top and bottom(s?) in it's current state. Thanks for your help, guys. UPDATE: Before I go off to get my visa, I thought I'd mention that I got an RGB21 SCART cable for my SFC when I bought my Framemeister and both my SFC and PS2 work great through it. It's supposed to be the same as the SHVC-010 cable. I've not read enough details regarding this cable's compatibility with the NESRGB. https://www.amazon.co.jp/3A-RGB21-SFC-3A%E3%82%AB%E3%83%B3%E3%83%91%E3%83%8B%E3%83%BC-%E3%82%B9%E3%83%BC%E3%83%91%E3%83%BC%E3%83%95%E3%82%A1%E3%83%9F%E3%82%B3%E3%83%B3%E7%94%A821%E3%83%94%E3%83%B3RGB%E3%82%B1%E3%83%BC%E3%83%96%E3%83%AB-2m-3A-RGB21-SFC/dp/B016UQGG28/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8 PS I got a 3-year visa! :-D |
| CaptainJistuce |
I'm pretty sure J8 should be closed. Note that it wasn't even an option on older revisions. You can try using CSync instead of CVideo, but I don't think that's really an issue. I'd wait on that, try it if nothing else helps. Edit: "NES / Famicom – The NESRGB mod offers both TTL and 75 ohm csync output, toggled via jumper J8. If you plan on using a SNES multi-out and standard SNES cable, use TTL to match the SNES’ output. If you’re using a cable with no components in the line, make sure to use 75ohm output. csync line: Select sync via jumper." I don't remember what your cable is like. |
| qwertymodo | Can you post a photo of the bottom of the console main board? |
| Kakashi |
Here's the pinout: https://etim.net.au/nesrgb/NESRGB-Pinout.pdf I remember asking the guy about jumper J8 and he just told me he soldered J7 for NTSC and giggled like an idiot. It appears he's configured J4 and J5 correctly for that, though. Do I need to switch V to CS# and solder J8? Is that composite video output being used for a sync? If I change to composite sync, will I lose composite output? I'm confused as to how to solder that, though. J4 looks like three neat triangles, where-as J5 is just a blob. I'm completely convinced that he didn't test it with a Framemeister, now. |
